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Where Did J.K. Rowling Write Harry Potter? The Cafés, Flats and Train Behind the Books

Ask fans where J.K. Rowling wrote Harry Potter and the answer you hear most is The Elephant House in Edinburgh.

That is only part of it. The full map has a train, a rented room in south London, a flat in Portugal, 3 Edinburgh cafés and a hotel suite on Princes Street.

The train where Harry first showed up

The idea arrived in 1990 on a delayed train from Manchester to London.

Rowling was working as a secretary in Manchester at the time.

In a 2020 thread on X (called Twitter at the time), she settled the question of where the story was born.

If you mean the moment of the idea, she wrote, “then it was a Manchester-London train.”

Manchester gave the books one more thing. In a 2013 annotated edition, she wrote that Quidditch was “invented in a small hotel in Manchester after a row with my then boyfriend.”

The first pages were written in London.

In the same 2020 thread, Rowling posted a photo of a building in Clapham Junction and explained: “I was renting a room in a flat over what was then a sports shop.”

She put it even more directly in another post: “The first bricks of Hogwarts were laid in a flat in Clapham Junction.”

The neighbourhood slipped into the books in a way she only noticed later.

Rowling has said Severus Snape’s first name came from Severus Road, a street in Battersea close to that flat.

Porto and the Mirror of Erised

In 1991 she moved to Porto, Portugal, to teach English.

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John Stankey and J.K Rowling attend HBO’s “Finding The Way Home” World Premiere – @Getty

She has said she wrote her favourite chapter of Philosopher’s Stone, The Mirror of Erised, in her first week there.

Porto has a myth attached as well.

Fans have long linked the city’s ornate Livraria Lello bookshop to Hogwarts.

Rowling shut that down in 2020: “I never visited this bookshop in Oporto.”

Rowling moved to Edinburgh at the end of 1993 with her baby daughter, Jessica.

Her first regular writing spot was Nicolson’s café at 6a Nicolson Street, which was part-owned by her brother-in-law.

She told the BBC in 2001 that Nicolson’s was “the place where I wrote huge parts of the book.”

When a fan asked about it in 2020, she confirmed it and added a detail I love: “I once wrote an entire chapter in there in one sitting.”

Nicolson’s is gone. The site became a café called Spoon and is now a Chinese restaurant, Wu Zhen of China, with a Harry Potter tribute wall which visitors still photograph.

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Helena Daniel Radcliffe on the set of the film, ‘Harry Potter and The Order of the Phoenix’, London, England, 2006 – @Getty

She finished the first book on a manual typewriter.

At Harvard in 2008, she said that in those years she had “an old typewriter and a big idea.”

The Elephant House and its famous sign

The Elephant House on George IV Bridge put “birthplace of Harry Potter” on its sign.

Rowling’s 2020 verdict was friendly but clear. She had been writing Potter for several years before she ever went in, so the claim is wrong, but “I *did* write in there so we’ll let them off!”

Travel guides say the café opened around 1996, about a year after the first book was done, and that she wrote parts of books 2 and 3 there.

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Emma Watson, Rupert Grint and Daniel Radcliffe attend a photocall to present the new cast of the Harry Potter Films, London, August 23, 2000 – @Getty

A fire badly damaged it, and it reopened in December 2025 with a Writers’ Room that displays a table she used.

She also wrote at the Traverse Theatre café, a less famous stop on the same Edinburgh circuit.

If I had a single hour in the city, I’d skip the queue at The Elephant House and walk to Nicolson Street instead. It’s less pretty, but it’s where Harry got most of his first year.

By the last book, fame made cafés impossible. In August 2006, Rowling checked in to room 552 at The Balmoral, the grand hotel at the end of Princes Street, to finish Deathly Hallows in private.

She finished on January 11, 2007.

Before checking out, she signed a marble bust of Hermes in the room, writing that she “finished writing Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows in this room (552).”

The hotel renamed it the J.K. Rowling Suite, with her permission.

In 2008 a night there cost £965, according to The Leaky Cauldron.

The signed bust is still in the suite, locked in a glass cabinet.

One more genuine landmark

Not all Edinburgh claims are tourist bait.

A set of gold handprints in a city pavement is hers, and Rowling confirmed it during the same 2020 thread.

So the honest route is a train, a London flat over a sports shop, Porto, Nicolson’s, The Elephant House, the Traverse and room 552.

It’s 17 years of writing from the first idea to the final page, which is how long she spent on the series.

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